Something for the Insomniacs

LSJohn

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shoot the four, draw aggressively back to the long rail, behind the 5 and bump it towards the other hole, then run out. Appears I'm able to use center draw and perform a slight overcut on the 4 to get my results. Because I'm hitting the back side of the 5 I'm able to hit the draw shot firm, thus giving me better control of the cue ball with a firm draw shot.

Your freedom to overcut the 4 -- if that's what's needed -- might depend on how tight the pockets are, humidity, etc.

However, the way I look at the diagram the angle on the four looks perfect to me to go under the 5, but I think I'd apply a half-tip of left.

It's interesting how we look at these diagrams and sometimes see so many different angles.
 

Tom Wirth

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Your freedom to overcut the 4 -- if that's what's needed -- might depend on how tight the pockets are, humidity, etc.

However, the way I look at the diagram the angle on the four looks perfect to me to go under the 5, but I think I'd apply a half-tip of left.

It's interesting how we look at these diagrams and sometimes see so many different angles.

John, I think you are right that it is possible to draw under the five but if the cue ball hits the bottom of the five you will have nothing left to shoot. Draw between the five and fifteen and should the cue ball hit the high side of the five there will still be a shot on the fifteen.

Tom
 

mr3cushion

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Bill, I am unable to post a video. I can only do stills. Maybe someone else can do that. In any case,it is not a difficult shot. The soft draw is a definite option here.

I can set it up and shoot the shot, then post the results, but you all will have to trust me. So you might as well trust me now and save me the effort. It can be figured out too much difficulty with a bit of logic. If you can calculate the maximum range on this angle with the use of soft follow and soft draw, than you also understand that you can drive the cue ball on any angle in between. It is simply a matter of where on the vertical axis the cue ball is struck.

In this case soft draw can pull the cue ball into the five ball, therefore all that needs be done is to slightly change the location of the vertical hit.

Tom

Tom, IMHO, if you try to draw the CB "softly" to the right of the 5 ball, I think it leaves a tougher cut on the 15!

If you try to hit the "same" draw shot a little "harder," to get pass the 5 ball, I think you'll run into the left edge of the 15 ball, leaving you, dead in the water!

Like I said, everyone has a choice when playing, this, IMHO is what separates the levels of players.
 

Tom Wirth

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Bill, maybe. Let's leave it to the readers to decide for themselves which they like better. For myself, I'm drawing between the five and fifteen but then that kind of shot is my strong suit.
Good thread, Bill. Thanks.

Tom
 

mr3cushion

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Bill, maybe. Let's leave it to the readers to decide for themselves which they like better. For myself, I'm drawing between the five and fifteen but then that kind of shot is my strong suit.
Good thread, Bill. Thanks.

Tom

You're 100% correct, that's why I post, "What would YOU do?" To get an idea how different players, THINK! ;)
 

LSJohn

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John, I think you are right that it is possible to draw under the five but if the cue ball hits the bottom of the five you will have nothing left to shoot. Draw between the five and fifteen and should the cue ball hit the high side of the five there will still be a shot on the fifteen.

Tom

I'm not seeing the angle that way, but at the table we'd both see it the same way, I suspect. Anyway, part of my reason for applying a little bit of left was to give me a better angle on the 15 in case I clipped the wrong side of the 5, and if I didn't clip the 5 the left would bring me right behind it.
 

Tom Wirth

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I'm not seeing the angle that way, but at the table we'd both see it the same way, I suspect. Anyway, part of my reason for applying a little bit of left was to give me a better angle on the 15 in case I clipped the wrong side of the 5, and if I didn't clip the 5 the left would bring me right behind it.

Correct John. Nothing wrong with that thinking.

T
 

jtompilot

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VERY observant Larry, there IS a "back cut" angle shooting the 4 ball, this is why the CB could run into the 15 and the 5 if you draw the CB back.

Of course there's a back cut or you couldn't draw for the 15. Oh yea it's a blast to let that stroke rip, but if you can rip that follow and hit the rail there with reverse then the angle is there for a soft draw. If you over draw it then shoot the 11 first.

That is a very nice shot you played there MR. C

One more thing to consider. If you hit that follow to hard or soft you have no other shot. The draw has a built in error margin
 
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mr3cushion

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Of course there's a back cut or you couldn't draw for the 15. Oh yea it's a blast to let that stroke rip, but if you can rip that follow and hit the rail there with reverse then the angle is there for a soft draw. If you over draw it then shoot the 11 first

Tom; the real reason I chose to show the shot I shot is, to show the "technique" of the, "soft" Inside English force-follow! If you stroke, "rip" as you suggested, the CB will create "too" wide of an angle to the first cushion to bring the CB "straight" across for the 11 ball!

The viewers can play the shot they're comfortable with, I chose to diagram and demonstrate a "technique" that's used in the 3C and where it might be applied in Pool!
 

jtompilot

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Tom; the real reason I chose to show the shot I shot is, to show the "technique" of the, "soft" Inside English force-follow! If you stroke, "rip" as you suggested, the CB will create "too" wide of an angle to the first cushion to bring the CB "straight" across for the 11 ball!

The viewers can play the shot they're comfortable with, I chose to diagram and demonstrate a "technique" that's used in the 3C and where it might be applied in Pool!

:sorryI was just ripping on you:)

That's a nice stroke shot that needs to be practiced and added to everyone's game.
 

mr3cushion

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Doc and Tom, There's several times when similar shots come up where some balls on your opponents side, below the side pocket. And maybe a few beyond it up table.

I a player practices this technique, he can pick off the lower balls going across the table for position. And then, will usually have a shot to go up table to pick off the other balls!
 

Miller

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I just noticed the video. I shouldn't have even posted my lame pattern :p (I've been obsessed with "bump" shots lately...).

Nice shot Bill, you sure can put some serious action on the ball.....
:)
 

NH Steve

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I don't have that smooth stroke follow in my bag -- especially in that close to the object ball. Next time I see you Bill, I want to work on that.
 

mr3cushion

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Dustin and Steve; Thanks for the "Props!" It's all in the timing and tempo of the stroke that produces maximum effect with minimum force or speed. A lot, also has to do with "How you deliver the cue through the CB!" If your stroke varies off line in ANY way, you lose some of the effect.

Remember, ALWAYS follow-thru on the "plane" you line up to on the CB!
 
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mr3cushion

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Thanks you everyone that viewed and responded to this thread!

I try to present alternative views that require some fundamental techniques used in the, "Carom" games that might not be familiar to Pocket players, and in hopes that it will expand their library of information.

The one missing "key" element that I've noticed between A players and AA players is the ability to be confident in "moving" the CB around the table without any qualms or hesitation in doing so.

Carom, especially 3 Cushion is all about the moving the CB around the table, "multiple" cushions primarily, along with positioning the Object ball. When Pocket players become familiar and comfortable with some of these techniques, I think they'll find themselves in a position where having these arrows in your quiver will help the player hit their mark with more ease and confidence!
 
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