About the break shot

[Skin]

Now before anybody new to this site mistakes me for a seasoned 1p player, let me dispel that notion right now. I am not, been playing only for a few years.

I just thought to offer something I discovered a while back that helped me get more consistent results off my break.

The first thing is, treat the break like a shot that requires precision, accuracy, and control because that's what it is. You see a lot of guys, even champions sometimes, get sloppy on the break. That takes away a lot of the advantage that can be gained. If you concentrate on it like it is a difficult shot that has to be made, the results are much better and it puts you in the right frame of mind to begin the game.

The other thing is to find a place to aim that works and that you can consistently hit. I now aim with inside for what would be a flush hit on the center ball (where the 8 would be in an 8b rack) from 3/4 diamond off the rail. I know what is supposed to happen if I hit that shot correctly...and it is all good. If that doesn't happen when I hit it right, then I have a rationale for how to adjust. That is a valuable asset.

Maybe other folks have some tips of their own to offer about the break. I'd like to hear them and I am sure many of the newbies to the game would also.

Skin < still thinks this is the best pool teaching site on the web, by a fur piece

 

[lll]

ROD, this would be a good time to explain again how you like to break
i remember your pics after your break and it always was a good one.

 

[NH Steve]

Another way to aim is to pick a target on the side rail to aim the head ball, as if the rest of the rack was not there. Theoretically aiming toward the second diamond gives you a simultaneous hit, so somewhere around there or a little below there that works for you, with the inside english compensation you need. You could practice this with a piece of chalk on the rail, but "marking the rail" like that would be illegal in competition --

Of course these methods would need adjustment if the rack is crooked (slanted one way or the other).

It seems like all players use inside english, but I've noticed that some players drag the cue ball with lower inside, while many use higher inside. Myself, I use a little higher because I believe it is easier for me to control the english deflection/curve issues, so my accuracy is better that way.

 

[Scrzbill]

You are correct that taking your time and making a good break is essential to a good beginning. Myself, I have been trying to make a ball consistently on the break. Even if I only make a ball on the break one or two times a night, it's deflating to the other player. Getting three, four, five off the break sends a strong message and one pocket is all about mental toughness. Like any other shot in pool, if I hit it bad, I have to shift into instant forgetfulness. Early onset Alzheimers is a condition of mine since birth so forgetting bad shots is easy. What was I saying?

 

[SJDinPHX]

Now before anybody new to this site mistakes me for a seasoned 1p player, let me dispel that notion right now. I am not, been playing only for a few years.

I just thought to offer something I discovered a while back that helped me get more consistent results off my break.

The first thing is, treat the break like a shot that requires precision, accuracy, and control because that's what it is. You see a lot of guys, even champions sometimes, get sloppy on the break. That takes away a lot of the advantage that can be gained. If you concentrate on it like it is a difficult shot that has to be made, the results are much better and it puts you in the right frame of mind to begin the game.

The other thing is to find a place to aim that works and that you can consistently hit. I now aim with inside for what would be a flush hit on the center ball (where the 8 would be in an 8b rack) from 3/4 diamond off the rail. I know what is supposed to happen if I hit that shot correctly...and it is all good. If that doesn't happen when I hit it right, then I have a rationale for how to adjust. That is a valuable asset.
Maybe other folks have some tips of their own to offer about the break. I'd like to hear them and I am sure many of the newbies to the game would also.

Skin < still thinks this is the best pool teaching site on the web, by a fur piece

Skin,

I expounded at great length, on how I like to break, and lost it all in *!#&@*$^T%@ing cyber space...Pretty pissed about it too. Will try again later..

PS..Bottom line is, the break is very important, for sure, but it really can be explained quite simply, how to achieve the desired results consistantly...

 

[CaliRed]

Skin,

I expounded at great length, on how I like to break, and lost it all in *!#&@*$^T%@ing cyber space...Pretty pissed about it too. Will try again later..

PS..Bottom line is, the break is very important, for sure, but it really can be explained quite simply, how to achieve the desired results consistantly...

Dick,

In the near future, onepocket.org will be updating the forum software to the newest version. In this newest version, there is a feature that was made specifically for you. It's a autosave feature. Every minute or two, it saves a draft of what you're writing. That way if something goes haywire, you can call up that version that was saved.

Hang in there, bud! © Fast Lenny

 

[newfosgatesucks]

I like to hear different approaches to shots, and now I offer mine.

I set up and line up for the same break each time - And use the amount of 'Dig' on the cueball to determine the thinness of the hit on the one-ball, which the determining factor of how to hit it comes from the tilt of the rack, and/or the cleanliness of the balls....If they are dirty, for example, they can be hit harder with the right spin, as the cueball drags off of them, especially in the event the cueball is grimy.

My findings on the tilt of the rack I will keep secretive - (stab at Freddie) I think I learned this from a handwritten book by some Lingo guy that was in a junk pile in front of an old woman's house some years ago...

 

[Skin]

Skin,

I expounded at great length, on how I like to break, and lost it all in *!#&@*$^T%@ing cyber space...Pretty pissed about it too. Will try again later..

PS..Bottom line is, the break is very important, for sure, but it really can be explained quite simply, how to achieve the desired results consistantly...

Can't wait to read it, Dick, when you get it typed up again.

Skin

 

[NH Steve]

I just remembered a tip that I heard or read at some point back -- I wish I knew who I got it from, so I could give them credit. Anyway, it was a suggestion to practice the break by just racking three balls at the head spot, because that gives you all of the practice target you need, and it is a lot easier to see what is going right or wrong with your "break" with only those three balls to deal with. By the way, I found it easier to see if my "rack" was straight by racking with the triangle, even though there are only three balls. Or place the balls by hand with a fourth temporary ball in the middle of the back so you can see if your "rack" is straight, and then pull the fourth ball away before breaking.

Anyway, with only three balls you can see clearly which direction the corner ball is going on your break, that ball being the one that represents the corner ball that you are trying to make in your own pocket. Supposedly the hit with three balls is pretty much the same hit that is needed with a tight full rack. So, if your corner ball is hitting the bottom cushion short of going into your corner pocket, then you need to hit the head ball thinner -- that is your adjustment guide. At the other extreme, you will also see clearly (just as you do with a full rack) if you miss the head ball on the way in.

If you try this, please post back how it worked for you.

 

[fred bentivegna]

You wish...

You wish...

I like to hear different approaches to shots, and now I offer mine.

I set up and line up for the same break each time - And use the amount of 'Dig' on the cueball to determine the thinness of the hit on the one-ball, which the determining factor of how to hit it comes from the tilt of the rack, and/or the cleanliness of the balls....If they are dirty, for example, they can be hit harder with the right spin, as the cueball drags off of them, especially in the event the cueball is grimy.

My findings on the tilt of the rack I will keep secretive - (stab at Freddie) I think I learned this from a handwritten book by some Lingo guy that was in a junk pile in front of an old woman's house some years ago...

...unfortunately for all, Lingo's knowledge and his one pocket journals died and disappeared with his passing.

Beard

 

[petie]

I just remembered a tip that I heard or read at some point back -- I wish I knew who I got it from, so I could give them credit. Anyway, it was a suggestion to practice the break by just racking three balls at the head spot, because that gives you all of the practice target you need, and it is a lot easier to see what is going right or wrong with your "break" with only those three balls to deal with. By the way, I found it easier to see if my "rack" was straight by racking with the triangle, even though there are only three balls. Or place the balls by hand with a fourth temporary ball in the middle of the back so you can see if your "rack" is straight, and then pull the fourth ball away before breaking.

Anyway, with only three balls you can see clearly which direction the corner ball is going on your break, that ball being the one that represents the corner ball that you are trying to make in your own pocket. Supposedly the hit with three balls is pretty much the same hit that is needed with a tight full rack. So, if your corner ball is hitting the bottom cushion short of going into your corner pocket, then you need to hit the head ball thinner -- that is your adjustment guide. At the other extreme, you will also see clearly (just as you do with a full rack) if you miss the head ball on the way in.

If you try this, please post back how it worked for you.

I'd settle for a break that would consistently NOT sell out the corner ball in my oppo's pocket. I'm not saying that I sell out every time but it's at least 2 out of 10.

 

[fred bentivegna]

3 ball one pocket

3 ball one pocket

I just remembered a tip that I heard or read at some point back -- I wish I knew who I got it from, so I could give them credit. Anyway, it was a suggestion to practice the break by just racking three balls at the head spot, because that gives you all of the practice target you need, and it is a lot easier to see what is going right or wrong with your "break" with only those three balls to deal with. By the way, I found it easier to see if my "rack" was straight by racking with the triangle, even though there are only three balls. Or place the balls by hand with a fourth temporary ball in the middle of the back so you can see if your "rack" is straight, and then pull the fourth ball away before breaking.

Anyway, with only three balls you can see clearly which direction the corner ball is going on your break, that ball being the one that represents the corner ball that you are trying to make in your own pocket. Supposedly the hit with three balls is pretty much the same hit that is needed with a tight full rack. So, if your corner ball is hitting the bottom cushion short of going into your corner pocket, then you need to hit the head ball thinner -- that is your adjustment guide. At the other extreme, you will also see clearly (just as you do with a full rack) if you miss the head ball on the way in.

If you try this, please post back how it worked for you.

In the 60s and 70s I played a lot of three ball one pocket, and naturally that is how the balls were racked for the game. A perfect hit on that rack often resulted in making the second ball directly into the corner pocket.

Beard

 

[Skin]

I just remembered a tip that I heard or read at some point back -- I wish I knew who I got it from, so I could give them credit. Anyway, it was a suggestion to practice the break by just racking three balls at the head spot, because that gives you all of the practice target you need, and it is a lot easier to see what is going right or wrong with your "break" with only those three balls to deal with. By the way, I found it easier to see if my "rack" was straight by racking with the triangle, even though there are only three balls. Or place the balls by hand with a fourth temporary ball in the middle of the back so you can see if your "rack" is straight, and then pull the fourth ball away before breaking.

Anyway, with only three balls you can see clearly which direction the corner ball is going on your break, that ball being the one that represents the corner ball that you are trying to make in your own pocket. Supposedly the hit with three balls is pretty much the same hit that is needed with a tight full rack. So, if your corner ball is hitting the bottom cushion short of going into your corner pocket, then you need to hit the head ball thinner -- that is your adjustment guide. At the other extreme, you will also see clearly (just as you do with a full rack) if you miss the head ball on the way in.

If you try this, please post back how it worked for you.

Here's the lnik, Steve. It was posted here by chopstick but the images are in an old version of the wei (or something) and don't show up. Maybe you know how to fix that so we can see.

http://onepocket.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1606#post1606

Skin

 

[androd]

I put the code in the Wei, but only the table came up.

Couldn't get the code at the bottom in line. Couldn't edit either.

[CUETABLE]%AN7O5%EG0O6%HG8D6%Ph1Z3%WO2P5%Xh0Z4%YO6B6%ZN8O2%[F8C4%\M7N7
%eC2`5[/CUETABLE]

 

[Cary]

I'd settle for a break that would consistently NOT sell out the corner ball in my oppo's pocket. I'm not saying that I sell out every time but it's at least 2 out of 10.

Bank the corner ball to the same side corner pocket at the head of the table. If the corner ball isn't there it won't sell you out. That break generally moves a few toward your pocket but if hit too hard they come back to the stack. It usually leaves the cue ball on your side at the head of the table.

It's kind of fun to call a ball & make it on the break. I once did that to open a game of 14.1 & ran 31 (unfortunately that's way over my head these days). I think it changed the way my opponent played the rest of the game.

Note: I still play around with that break occasionally but have never actually used it in a game of one-pocket.

 

[SJDinPHX]

Can't wait to read it, Dick, when you get it typed up again.

Skin

Skin, as promised.

Every decent player is comfortable on his home court. But when you are playing on strange equipment, every table reacts different to the standard break...I have had fairly good success following a few simple guidlines...Say its the second game, and its your break on a strange table...I position the cue ball about 3" from the side rail, and try to make a good hit the standard way, just graze the head ball, and fairly full into the 2nd ball...I also do not use top (or bottom) english...just straight one tip RH side english, (breaking from the left side of the table)...why complicate things ? For me anyway, it is much easier to control straight side english, then it is to introduce a second, un-needed, spin to the rotation of the cue ball. The cue ball, will follow the right path automatically, by its weight, once you hit the rack. It also enables you to hit the ball with a little more authority, (harder) and scatter the balls toward your hole better.

Any two tables, that appear to be exactly alike, may break radically different..If I don't get the desired result on my 1st attempt, I will move the cue ball, another ball width from the side rail next break...I have played on tables where the optimum result, might be 8" to 10" from the side rail...Factor in dirty balls, wet table, dry table, light or heavy cue ball, cloth nap, etc. and you need to see which way works best for you. Hope I didn't overcomplicate things, the main thing is a good consistent hit, on the first two balls...Whatever your method of doing that, (ghost ball, aiming at a ball in the rack) that is the key to a consistant break...Don't be afraid to adjust, if your standard break doesn't work.

Very few players practice the 1P break, but if you're not comfortable with it, maybe you should... As we all know, the break, and getting out of it, are probably the two most important facets of the game...Learn them both well, and you have a good platform for learning the rest of this great game.

Hope this helps...

 

[lll]

Skin, as promised.

Every decent player is comfortable on his home court. But when you are playing on strange equipment, every table reacts different to the standard break...I have had fairly good success following a few simple guidlines...Say its the second game, and its your break on a strange table...I position the cue ball about 3" from the side rail, and try to make a good hit the standard way, just graze the head ball, and fairly full into the 2nd ball...I also do not use top (or bottom) english...just straight one tip RH side english, (breaking from the left side of the table)...why complicate things ? For me anyway, it is much easier to control straight side english, then it is to introduce a second, un-needed, spin to the rotation of the cue ball. The cue ball, will follow the right path automatically, by its weight, once you hit the rack. It also enables you to hit the ball with a little more authority, (harder) and scatter the balls toward your hole better.

Any two tables, that appear to be exactly alike, may break radically different..If I don't get the desired result on my 1st attempt, I will move the cue ball, another ball width from the side rail next break...I have played on tables where the optimum result, might be 8" to 10" from the side rail...Factor in dirty balls, wet table, dry table, light or heavy cue ball, cloth nap, etc. and you need to see which way works best for you. Hope I didn't overcomplicate things, the main thing is a good consistent hit, on the first two balls...Whatever your method of doing that, (ghost ball, aiming at a ball in the rack) that is the key to a consistant break...Don't be afraid to adjust, if your standard break doesn't work.

Very few players practice the 1P break, but if you're not comfortable with it, maybe you should... As we all know, the break, and getting out of it, are probably the two most important facets of the game...Learn them both well, and you have a good platform for learning the rest of this great game.

Hope this helps...

thanks dick
good advice

 

[Tramp Steamer]

This little tidbit of information helped me to re-tune my break.
I was watching the video of a match featuring Harriman and Strickland, and noticed that both Danny and Earl were placing the cue ball some six to eight inches away from the side rail at the break.
Lately I had been breaking with whitey almost lying against the rail and getting varied and inconsistant results, so the next time I was at the pool room I set the cb away from the rail (six inches, or so) and hit it with lots of inside center spin. My breaks improved dramatically.
When the rack was hit (correctly, of course) the cue ball would go to the foot rail, very near my opponents pocket, then alongside or next to the side rail a couple of diamonds up table. There were rarely, if ever, any thin cuts left near my opponents pocket, and at my pocket there was almost always one ball high, one ball low, and one ball near the hole. Consistancy was way up.
Now, I realize I'm preaching to the choir by explaining my break to the excellent players of this forum, but the main point here may be that a little bit of knowledge may be gained by simple observation at the right time, in the right place.
Now if you'll excuse me I'm late for breakfast. The staff here gets a little peeved when one of us is tardy.

 

[androd]

This little tidbit of information helped me to re-tune my break.
I was watching the video of a match featuring Harriman and Strickland, and noticed that both Danny and Earl were placing the cue ball some six to eight inches away from the side rail at the break.
Lately I had been breaking with whitey almost lying against the rail and getting varied and inconsistant results, so the next time I was at the pool room I set the cb away from the rail (six inches, or so) and hit it with lots of inside center spin. My breaks improved dramatically.
When the rack was hit (correctly, of course) the cue ball would go to the foot rail, very near my opponents pocket, then alongside or next to the side rail a couple of diamonds up table. There were rarely, if ever, any thin cuts left near my opponents pocket, and at my pocket there was almost always one ball high, one ball low, and one ball near the hole. Consistancy was way up.
Now, I realize I'm preaching to the choir by explaining my break to the excellent players of this forum, but the main point here may be that a little bit of knowledge may be gained by simple observation at the right time, in the right place.
Now if you'll excuse me I'm late for breakfast. The staff here gets a little peeved when one of us is tardy.

Usually when you break from out there you have your bridge hand on the table as opposed to the rail, which works much better for me and allows a tighter bridge, ergo a more accurate hit on the pack.
Rod

 

[Skin]

Thanks for your tips, Dick.

I know you like to break from the left side. I prefer the right. Control is better for me from that side. When I aim at the center ball in the rack, I load the cb up with middle inside which curves the cb in like a bowler hitting the pocket. When it is working, the balls just POP out to my side, the cb comes straight up his long rail, and the corner ball on his side at worst drops straight down to the foot rail. No sell outs, no low cb for him to work with, and nothing to bank without risk. The only real danger is a scratch if the balls aren't racked good.

A lot like what Tramp described above....

Skin

Guess I didn't follow the SJD 30 minute rule and posted before you finished editing, Dick. Really good stuff in your first post, mo' & better in your edited second. Thanks.