WWYD End Game

[dmcparland]

Thanks, dmcpartland, for the wwyd!
It reminds of the LA Times chess puzzles that only had a few pieces remaining and mate in two.
I read through the comments, and you got some excellent advice from your fellow members. I see you are a new member, welcome!
Whitey

Thanks Whitey! Yes, there is some excellent advice in the responses and cincy kid shared a great resource of end game scenarios. I have been looking through those.

One thing that quickly became apparent after reading these responses is my mindset is super aggressive. That serves me well early on but come mid and end game it gets me into trouble. No wonder those are the weakest parts of my game!?! Time to work on controlling that aggression.

 

[Billy Jackets]

I would shoot centerball on the 6 ball with stop, take it over to my side on the long rail and hard enough to take the 9 ball 2 rails over by the 6 balls new position, at worst I might make the 6 ball and it spots up, but the cue ball will be near or on your rail.

 

[Billy Jackets]

I like it -- nudge the 6 ball and leave the cue ball there.

If you do pocket the one, you would have to bring the cue ball all the way back down to the foot of the table, on your opponent's side to prevent a shot on the one or the move behind those two balls. It's just too easy to leave some kind of bank on the one and/or the possibility of taking advantage of those two balls as blockers.

My shot also. I wouldn't shoot the one in
unless they put a gun to my head .

 

[Kybanks]

Situations like these, test your opponents patience. The bunt and nudge game goes a long way in this situation. It also will start frustrating your opponent and break him down.

 

[BrookelandBilly]

With a gun pointed at my head, thin the 1 in the side pocket and bank the cue ball off the head rail where it is hidden behind the 9/6.

 

[beatle]

you want to leave the cue ball on the head rail so you get to play one on one with the 1 ball spotted. if he moves the 1 ball you get first aggressive shot to make it.

and if he chooses to go behind the two balls which is fine with you he has some distance and can sell out possible or leave you better than if you leave him there and he is close.

you dont mind ticking around from behind the two balls as you have protection from the spotted 1 ball and if he leaves any opening he is toast.

 

[wincardona]

you want to leave the cue ball on the head rail so you get to play one on one with the 1 ball spotted. if he moves the 1 ball you get first aggressive shot to make it.

and if he chooses to go behind the two balls which is fine with you he has some distance and can sell out possible or leave you better than if you leave him there and he is close.

you dont mind ticking around from behind the two balls as you have protection from the spotted 1 ball and if he leaves any opening he is toast.

This is a very good option as described by beatle, perfectly I may add. If the 6 and 9balls weren't tied up then playing off the 1ball would be a mistake but that is certainly not the case. By pocketing the 1ball and positioning the cue ball close to the top rail on your opponent's side of the table will force him to play off the 1ball then you can battle for the 1ball from that position. Playing ball for ball is the optimum situation where you want to be in needing only one ball to your opponents 3-4-5 etc balls. However, when the 6 and 9ball are separated during the battle then you must use good One Pocket strategy to win from that position.

Of course, there are other good options in response to this situation but entertaining beatles option not only in this particular situation but other situations that are similar to this one would be beneficial.

Dr. Bill

 

[sorackem]

The first shot I considered was touching in the 1 ball leave cb on head-rail. Don't want to disturb the 6/9. Putting the 1 on the spot and cb on the rail puts considerable pressure on the opponent. If he tries to play off the 6/9 he'll have a tough time not leaving some kind of play from me.
I thought it a bit wild after cincy mentioned the roll up on the 6, but given the score I really like the idea of putting win or lose pressure on the opponent in this situation.

 

[Kybanks]

Why would anyone pocket the 1 ball in this situation. I'm not seeing the strength of the shot. In my opinion it's the only way you lose the game.

 

[Dennis "Whitey" Young]

I am asking this, in making the 1 then what is goal for positioning of the cb? Is it to the head rail or the side long rail by the upper opponent's corner pocket?
To me, leaving the cb on the head rail leaves a back cut to their scoring pocket, and the cb can travel safe behind the 6/1 protecting the 1 ball. Whereas the bank does not lend any protection, but the opponent can play the cb into the 6/9.
Whitey

 

[NH Steve]

Why would anyone pocket the 1 ball in this situation. I'm not seeing the strength of the shot. In my opinion it's the only way you lose the game.

The point with putting the 1 ball on the spot as I read it, is by putting it into play, you invite your opponent to have to deal with it, thus insuring you are battling with just one loose ball -- a classic advantage to the player that only needs one.

My concern with those two balls by the side pocket is, while you are battling over that one loose ball, you better not leave your opponent an opportunity to bring the 1 near their pocket and swing the cue ball behind those two balls, since they are in such a good blocking position if the cue ball is left anywhere along that upper side rail on the opponent's side.

 

[NH Steve]

I am asking this, in making the 1 then what is goal for positioning of the cb? Is it to the head rail or the side long rail by the upper opponent's corner pocket?
To me, leaving the cb on the head rail leaves a back cut to their scoring pocket, and the cb can travel safe behind the 6/1 protecting the 1 ball. Whereas the bank does not lend any protection, but the opponent can play the cb into the 6/9.
Whitey

Yes, that is an example of how those two balls could become used as blockers.

 

[dmcparland]

I am asking this, in making the 1 then what is goal for positioning of the cb? Is it to the head rail or the side long rail by the upper opponent's corner pocket?
To me, leaving the cb on the head rail leaves a back cut to their scoring pocket, and the cb can travel safe behind the 6/1 protecting the 1 ball. Whereas the bank does not lend any protection, but the opponent can play the cb into the 6/9.
Whitey

I was thinking to knock the one in and leave cb behind the 9 and 6.

Then I get the ball I need to win into play and leave them trapped behind the blockers. The 6 and 9 were also lined up towards my pocket where if we got into a bunting battle I figured I might have a chance to kick into the nine and send the 6 towards or maybe even in my hole.

 

[dmcparland]

The point with putting the 1 ball on the spot as I read it, is by putting it into play, you invite your opponent to have to deal with it, thus insuring you are battling with just one loose ball -- a classic advantage to the player that only needs one.

My concern with those two balls by the side pocket is, while you are battling over that one loose ball, you better not leave your opponent an opportunity to bring the 1 near their pocket and swing the cue ball behind those two balls, since they are in such a good blocking position if the cue ball is left anywhere along that upper side rail on the opponent's side.

Hmm. Very interesting point about them getting the one ball by their hole and then using the 6 and 9 as blockers. I had not even considered that possibility, but if I can use them as blockers so can the opponent.

 

[cincy_kid]

I was thinking to knock the one in and leave cb behind the 9 and 6.

Then I get the ball I need to win into play and leave them trapped behind the blockers. The 6 and 9 were also lined up towards my pocket where if we got into a bunting battle I figured I might have a chance to kick into the nine and send the 6 towards or maybe even in my hole.

View attachment 437773

They looked to me like 9/6 was pointing to hit the foot rail and then if you kick at it, its going to throw even further down to the foot rail but if the pic is deceiving and pointing closer to your pocket, I like Rod's shot of kicking the combo from where you were.

 

[BrookelandBilly]

I was thinking to knock the one in and leave cb behind the 9 and 6.

Then I get the ball I need to win into play and leave them trapped behind the blockers. The 6 and 9 were also lined up towards my pocket where if we got into a bunting battle I figured I might have a chance to kick into the nine and send the 6 towards or maybe even in my hole.

View attachment 437773

Dat be my shot.

 

[Kybanks]

I believe if you pocket the 1 ball and put him behind the 9/6, you are allowing him to win the game. Cause if he freezes you to the 9 ball and cb freezes to the rail, guess what happens?

 

[darmoose]

I was thinking to knock the one in and leave cb behind the 9 and 6.

Then I get the ball I need to win into play and leave them trapped behind the blockers. The 6 and 9 were also lined up towards my pocket where if we got into a bunting battle I figured I might have a chance to kick into the nine and send the 6 towards or maybe even in my hole.

View attachment 437773

Seems to me that if you hide him behind the two balls on the long rail and pur the one ball on the spot, you are forcing him to open up those two balls which is exactly what you don''t want...........don't you think?

 

[jrhendy]

You do not want to move the one ball. By doing so, you put it in play, and if you go back to David’s follow up post, you can see what happened.

 

[darmoose]

You do not want to move the one ball. By doing so, you put it in play, and if you go back to David’s follow up post, you can see what happened.

ok.........so, what's your shot, John?