Damn...I just gotta say that we've got some guys on here who are freakin' stealth bomber-deadly with their mouse...don't even matter if they hafta load up with english from dead offa the rail neither...
I don't think even Skylar or Billy Thorpe could hang with them in mouse-banking
Yeah Billy, maybe we can do some partner's prop-betting here
This could be my opportunity to get some of my buddy Kyb's cash......
Any of you mouse-bankers have action with me...you can shoot any of the banks, and I'll play a safety, and we'll take turns playing out games
And btw, in my nsho, the best choice here is pretty much a pick-it between Frank's safety, and Crabman's safety (which didn't get mentioned as it should have, except by Larry - good on you Larry)...
...and there are two reasons why John's safety of shooting the 7 forward is superior to the safety of coming off the 7 into/towards the 14:
#1. With distance and having to shoot off the rail making speed control and accuracy problematic, there's more margin for error, and much less chance of selling out a shot with John's shot/John's cueball trajectory...as opposed to the proposed shot of having the cueball head into the 14, or towards the 14ball area.
#2. John's shot leaves the 10 and 7 both clear for banking straight back, or cutting in...while conversely, in cutting the 7 to the left, you may very well harm your position by having the 7 end up, doubling up the 10/blocking each others banking lanes.
My money? You have to shoot here. The trick to the shot is 1 tip of left to hold the object ball on a good line. I will shoot it and let ya know how much money I owe you.
I know how busy and rushed for time you are these days, so you may not have read the thread from the beginning. But the 7-14 was ole Doc's shot in post #3......
[to OneRock:] I like your safety playing the carom off the 7ball into the 14ball. Either that option or Frank The Barber's option with crossing the 10ball to get away from the position and deal with it from square one.
I know how busy and rushed for time you are these days, so you may not have read the thread from the beginning. But the 7-14 was ole Doc's shot in post #3...
I believe your odds are incorrect beatle. 7/1 is clearly too high. Between two fairly decent players, the odds to win a game with Player A needing all the balls are 4/1 at most. Now if you are playing ball for ball maybe the odds are 7/1 but it really rarely comes down to where player A wins the game by pocketing one ball at a time.first off giving him next shot with three balls up table puts you in that 7 to 1 dog range.
where if you bank a ball to your hole if you make it you fall into the 2 to 1 range with the next shot or better.
and if you hang it he likely wont shoot a long shot for his hole anyway so you dont really sell out and if he does so what, as if he misses you can become the favorite or close to it.
Sorry, doc you did mention it first I apologize. Anyways, good eye Peter.I know how busy and rushed for time you are these days, so you may not have read the thread from the beginning. But the 7-14 was ole Doc's shot in post #3...
THis comes down to execution I dont think it is to tough to judge the hit to hit the 14 and since I am really just playing bunt speed to hopefully lay on the 14 I like my oddsthe carom into the 14, if you hit it too thin or thick you leave a straight in shot on the 14
its is 7 to 1, when a ball at a time is made that is right. and general around 4 to 1 when two good players have the standard situation. but when all 3 balls are up table and the player that needs one is now the shooter the odds increase to i believe around the 7 to 1, i figure.
and is less if the person shoots the bank but by how much i dont know, as it depends on the shooters ability to put the long bank in or near his jaws and not leave too easy a shot.
most players dont play well enough to run all three balls from an up table position. very good players can though.
so their odds of winning go up dramatically. where the average players odds of winning go way down approaching the 7 to 1 figure. and as the odds change every time the other player's turn comes.
this is really a math question and not a shot choice question. few look at it that way but it is definitely a math decision. but you do have to have a good gauge on your ability to make the different shots, and to put a % on the different outcomes.
but anytime you need all the balls on the table and he needs just one you need a great reason to not shoot a shot which can win you the game or make it close to an even one. it is one of the times you can shoot a shot you are a big dog to make and it may be the correct choice.
I'm not going to panic here and try one of those two banks available. Both have loss written over them. I'm banking the ten ball over to his side of the table and taking the cue ball one rail over to my side of the table by my pocket trying not to leave him a three rail bank on it. Hit it fairly well and you take away the one rail bank on the seven.
i had to look that up........i will let it go at that. but would like to add that i was probably the first to use stochastic processes to add to the decision making of gambling thoughts in a manner to beat games of uncertainty of accurate decision making
i had to look that up........
i still like how you think beatle.....
I'm feeling like banking the 7 is very cautious offense, i'm not playing to get out from here i'm thinking just move a ball toward my hole and leave him a difficult game ball decision.Why bank the 7 and hold up the cb. It does not make sense! So you are playing for 1 when you need 3 with a complete sell out.
You have 3 banks staring you in the face, which one gets you all 3?
If you are going offense then go, otherwise banking the 7, just lost you the game! Whitey
There is a very nice rule of thumb for long banks that applies to this diagram. If an object ball is even with the side pockets and you bank it back to your pocket just reaching the pocket, the cue ball will travel forward a very predictable distance. That distance is four diamonds, so the cue ball will be left on the end rail.
It is clear that there must be some magic position for the object ball on a straight long bank for which the speed that barely pockets the object ball leaves the cue ball frozen on the head rail with a rolling cue ball. If the OB is close to the head rail, the CB will bounce off. If the OB is on the foot spot, for example, the CB will not reach the end rail at pocket speed. For many tables, the magic distance is right between the side pockets. If a table has boingy cushions, the location is closer to the head rail. If the cushion is dead, the location is closer to the head rail.
That a long way of saying that the cue ball will end a lot closer to the end rail than shown.