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Shot
# |
Shot description |
|
The Opening Break |
39 |
Testing the corner pockets for width --
a good idea on a strange table. They might even be different!
Two standard balls together make 4-1/2", which is a good
indication of a tight table -- or a loose table if there's significant
extra space.
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38 |
Testing a strange table for rolls. Other
issues not withstanding, you would want pocket 'A' because the
ball rolls in. It's possible to adjust to rolls, but a lot harder
to adjust for a roll away like at pocket 'B'!
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13 |
The classic opening break. Moving the cue ball closer to the
rail 'B' is more aggressive. Moving the cue towards the center
'C' is safer but less aggressive.
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31 |
An alternative break, which leaves the cue ball at the far
end of the table. Clip the second to last ball, then the
corner ball, with just a little inside english to hold up the
cue ball.
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21 |
Side rail first opening break -- not considered as strong
as the conventional break, partly because it doesn't tend to
put a ball near your pocket. People who use this break
practice it enough to have a set cue ball placement, set target
on the rail, and certain english that they like. This
set-up uses straight draw.
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|
Down Table |
5 |
A rail first 'ticky' to return the break. The same shot would
work to give your opponent the 2nd ball if it was hanging in
the pocket, but in this case the 2nd ball was just less than
a cueball's width off the bottom rail, so no scratch!
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What would you do from here? |
23 |
A standard kick safety when you are locked up on the stack.
Your priority should be getting the cue to land in the ideal
spot, not whether or not you have to take a scratch to get it
there -- unless you already are 'on a scratch'.
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30 |
A 'split shot' -- made by clipping the 1-ball first then caroming
into the 2-ball, the cue ball goes nearly straight out the other
side, so position might actually be obtained. These lie best
squarely facing the pocket, and just over a ball apart.
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What would you do from here? |
3 |
Kick bank to clear opponent's pocket & move ball near
your own. Of course it's safest when nothing goes on your opponent's
side of the table!
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43 |
Using the bottom corner of the stack as a stopper
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35 |
Kicking at a ball
near your opponent's pocket -- aiming for a 'ticky' off the
15-ball -- with soft speed to end up with your opponent snookered.
The 'mirror system' works pretty well for these shots, as
long as you don't get any accidental left or right english.
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32 |
Carom to behind the balls near your opponent's pocket, at
the same time kissing a ball off the stack towards your own
pocket.
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4 |
Kick safety with a cue carom into the back of the stack, while
sending a ball over to your own side.
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14 |
A better way to give your opponent the 15 ball hanging in
their pocket (B). Draw the cue gently into the side of the stack,
sending the 4 ball off the right side of the 15 & over by
your own pocket (A). 'Course, you have to make the hanging ball!
Click to view on the new CueTable |
27 |
Efren Reyes used this combination carom to move two balls
from his opponent's side -- one to very near his own pocket.
At the same time he drew the cue into the side of the rack.
Click to view on the new CueTable |
69 |
A back cut bank -- another 'Bugs' favorite. It's not a kiss (you can see that the object ball is to the left of a straight line drawn to the pocket), but there is a possibility of scratching in pocket 'C'.
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72 |
A long two cushion shot that sends the cue ball behind the stack at the same time. The cut helps put a little 'hold-up' english on the object ball that shortens the angle when the ball hits the far cushion.
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68 |
The ‘Jersey Red’ shot – the cue ball just
clips the one ball, hits the side cushion and immediately rebounds
to knock the one straight into his pocket.
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|
A nice little 'time' shot, courtesy Graham Dugas. This diagram has two pages; to see the whole shot you will have to click on the second page arrow.
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|
Middle Game |
51 |
An often overlooked twice across
'Z' bank
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|
End Game |
1 |
Three ball run out starting
with a kiss-back bank. The 1-ball is about a chalk's thickness
off the cushion. If the 3-ball gets knocked in as shown, then
once the other two balls are made and no balls are left on the
table, the 3 gets spotted to become game ball!
Click to view on the new CueTable |
2 |
Kick two rails to a thin cut
towards your pocket. A lot higher percentage than it looks,
and fairly safe, too. Even if the ball isn't frozen to the end
rail, the preferred aim is to kick two rails to the cut shot
-- not one rail.
Click to view on the new CueTable |
7 |
Supposedly one of Chicago 'Bugs'
Rucker's favorite banks. Inside English holds the cue ball near
the head cushion, instead of the running English path that brings
it out across the middle of the table, for a potential scratch
in the side pocket.
Click to view on the new CueTable |
67 |
A classic ‘english’ bank, taking advantage of
transferred english to impossibly pass the uptable ball – the 1-ball was placed very close to the cushion for this 'twister'
bank from Grady Mathew's exhibition
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74 |
Efren Reyes' great one railer
to close out a race to eight games with Cliff Joyner at the
2004 DCC -- on new cloth! (Aproximation of actual layout
and score)
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|
77 |
When you need two with both
balls on the spot and ball in hand, here is an aggressive way
to play both balls towards your hole. The slight angle and strong
draw stroke force the head ball forward towards your hole, while
the back ball double banks.
Click to view this shot on the new CueTable |
78 |
When you need only one, and
both balls are on the spot with ball in hand, the more conservative
standard safety is just to roll into the head ball with a fairly
full hit to leave the cue ball near the foot rail and move both
balls to your side.
Click to view on the new CueTable |
79 |
Another conservative way to
play safe off two balls on the spot. Cutting the head ball to
the left helps push the two balls towards your side, and with
practice it is pretty easy to consistently leave the cue ball
close to foot rail.
Click to view on the new CueTable |