Ding-Ding-Ding! :hehBank the 14 (?) half-speed, and billiard the 11 (?), possibly pocketing it. This will take away two banks from Scott and leave him in a tough spot. With the 11 where it is, it would be hard to find a safe leave anywhere on the table.
I like your shot and playing it at half speed is where we may differ. If the shot lays where you can hit the 14 ball fat and send it toward the 10 ball, the cue ball should strike the 11 ball on the side of the ball creating a safe leave. By striking the 14 ball fat you will follow through the 14 ball, as opposed to glancing off of it hitting the 14 ball more thinly. This method would give the shooter a more threatening position and a more difficult one to defend against. But if the angle offered doesn't allow me to play the shot in the fashion that I suggested, then I would play it exactly the way you described.Bank the 14 (?) half-speed, and billiard the 11 (?), possibly pocketing it. This will take away two banks from Scott and leave him in a tough spot. With the 11 where it is, it would be hard to find a safe leave anywhere on the table.
I agree. If I were certain I could play it with enough speed to bring the 14farther down the table, and get the leave I wanted, that's what I would do, also.
Bank the 14 (?) half-speed, and billiard the 11 (?), possibly pocketing it. This will take away two banks from Scott and leave him in a tough spot. With the 11 where it is, it would be hard to find a safe leave anywhere on the table.
I like your shot and playing it at half speed is where we may differ. If the shot lays where you can hit the 14 ball fat and send it toward the 10 ball, the cue ball should strike the 11 ball on the side of the ball creating a safe leave. By striking the 14 ball fat you will follow through the 14 ball, as opposed to glancing off of it hitting the 14 ball more thinly. This method would give the shooter a more threatening position and a more difficult one to defend against. But if the angle offered doesn't allow me to play the shot in the fashion that I suggested, then I would play it exactly the way you described.
Dr. Bill
There's also another option that would be worth considering, and that is to shoot through the 1 ball with a follow, sending the cue ball toward the top left side of the table. Both the one and 6 balls should end up on your side of the table the only ball in question would be the 8 ball. The 8 ball if faster than the cue ball should leave allowing the cue ball to go up table. I'll set this shot up a little different each time, to see what happens with the 8 ball.There's another factor that should be recognized with shooting this particular shot, and that is the 8 ball. The 8 ball sits adjacent to the 6 ball slightly higher on a possible carom angle toward his pocket, with a built in safety from that side of the table. If this shot is on I wouldn't leave the cue ball at that end of the table.
My second option would be to draw off the 1 ball and bring the cue ball back toward my opponents pocket, then in back of the balls positioned near the foot rail.
Dr. Bill
After experimenting with this shot I have come to the conclusion that this is by far the best shot. I set this shot up differently, in regard to the position of the 8 ball, and every time I shot it I got great results with the exception of one time when the 8 ball hit both points of the side pocket and I left a straight in shot, but I positioned the cue ball at the other end of the table and left great distance. Still not a bad result. When the 8 ball missed the point of the side pocket the shot turned out very strong. Hope I helped some people with this option, this kind of shot shows more often then you think.There's also another option that would be worth considering, and that is to shoot through the 1 ball with a follow, sending the cue ball toward the top left side of the table. Both the one and 6 balls should end up on your side of the table the only ball in question would be the 8 ball. The 8 ball if faster than the cue ball should leave allowing the cue ball to go up table. I'll set this shot up a little different each time, to see what happens with the 8 ball.
Dr. Bill
Sorry but this shot really doesn't help develop a stronger position, plus it takes a ball away from your side of the table that is fairly near your pocket. Plus it's not that easy of a shot to control the cue ball off of.Doesn' anybody like banking the 10 and putting whitie behind the 12 on the bottom rail?
There's also another option that would be worth considering, and that is to shoot through the 1 ball with a follow, sending the cue ball toward the top left side of the table. Both the one and 6 balls should end up on your side of the table the only ball in question would be the 8 ball. The 8 ball if faster than the cue ball should leave allowing the cue ball to go up table. I'll set this shot up a little different each time, to see what happens with the 8 ball.
Dr. Bill
Larry, this hit is an easy hit, you're close enough to the 1 ball to hit it accurately, now the only thing left is knowing how to hit it. This can be done by setting up the shot and hit the 1 ball as full in the face as you possibly can with a follow stroke. Remember where the cue ball went with that type of hit, now set it up again and do exactly the same thing, with the same hit. The cue ball should go in the same direction that it went to the last time you shot the shot. This is how you develop a feel for this type of shot, off of a full hit. Now if you want the cue ball to go either left or right of the path it took when you first shot the shot you must then make a slight adjustment with the hit. If you want the cue ball to go more to the left your adjustment should be to hit the 1 ball slightly more to the left on the 1 ball. Then if you want the cue ball to go to the right of the original path your adjustment with the hit on the 1 ball should be a slight adjustment to the right of the 1 ball.billy i like this idea
and yes often this does come up where you can remove a cluster and position the cue ball to a good spot
however
as i see the diagram if you hit the 1 fairly full to follow thru the line seems to take you to just below the side pocket(towards the head rail)
if you try for more distance the cueball will rebound towards the middle of the table not toward the top left side
if you cut the 0ne to the left alittleto get the cue ball to go toward the upper left of the table you have to play alittle with the when the cue ball will "bend" foward of the tangent line
if you cut the one too much you might hit the solid in the center of the table
based on how well the result was for you
you had yo have set it up so line thru the cue ball and the one was directed farther below the side pocket or stated another way more towards the upper left top of the table
if my line of centers of the cue ball and one ball is accurate can you still easily execute your shot???
View attachment 5772
Larry, on the set up of this shot, I tried to set it up like it was in the picture. The cue ball was positioned slightly right of the dia. on the foot rail about 2 1/2" off the foot rail. From this position if you stand in back of the shot and draw a line through the center of the cue ball to the center of the 1 ball the line should end up slightly to the right of the side pocket. This means that if you hit the 1 ball squarely with a follow stroke the cue ball should follow the imaginary line. Now you can make your slight adjustment depending on what path you want the cue ball to travel. Practice this shot and then get back with me. Then set up the position the same way the position is set up in the picture, and try to follow the cue ball in back of the balls that are positioned at the top left of the table. When you do that tell me how you liked the results of the shot.billy i like this idea
and yes often this does come up where you can remove a cluster and position the cue ball to a good spot
however
as i see the diagram if you hit the 1 fairly full to follow thru the line seems to take you to just below the side pocket(towards the head rail)
if you try for more distance the cueball will rebound towards the middle of the table not toward the top left side
if you cut the 0ne to the left alittleto get the cue ball to go toward the upper left of the table you have to play alittle with the when the cue ball will "bend" foward of the tangent line
if you cut the one too much you might hit the solid in the center of the table
based on how well the result was for you
you had yo have set it up so line thru the cue ball and the one was directed farther below the side pocket or stated another way more towards the upper left top of the table
if my line of centers of the cue ball and one ball is accurate can you still easily execute your shot???
View attachment 5772
Larry, on the set up of this shot, I tried to set it up like it was in the picture. The cue ball was positioned slightly right of the dia. on the foot rail about 2 1/2" off the foot rail. From this position if you stand in back of the shot and draw a line through the center of the cue ball to the center of the 1 ball the line should end up slightly to the right of the side pocket. This means that if you hit the 1 ball squarely with a follow stroke the cue ball should follow the imaginary line. Now you can make your slight adjustment depending on what path you want the cue ball to travel. Practice this shot and then get back with me. Then set up the position the same way the position is set up in the picture, and try to follow the cue ball in back of the balls that are positioned at the top left of the table. When you do that tell me how you liked the results of the shot.
Dr. Bill
Dr. Bill, I love these shots where I force-follow and I shoot them often and pretty well. lll is right - that on a small cut the cue ball can kick out a bit before it goes straight again, and on a shallow angle I went into the corner pocket a lot of times before I figured out what was happening. No more. I call the cut 1 degree off center. It's so slight that it's almost only in your mind, but if you think of it that way it will work out for you. Following is a lot more precise and reliable than drawing. And easier.
Dr. Bill, I love these shots where I force-follow and I shoot them often and pretty well. lll is right - that on a small cut the cue ball can kick out a bit before it goes straight again, and on a shallow angle I went into the corner pocket a lot of times before I figured out what was happening. No more. I call the cut 1 degree off center. It's so slight that it's almost only in your mind, but if you think of it that way it will work out for you. Following is a lot more precise and reliable than drawing. And easier.