returning a kick break

[cleary]

One of the guys I play regularly does the 1 rail kick break every time on me because he realized I cannot figure out a good way to get out of it. More often than not, I'll kick one rail towards his pocket with mixed results, more bad than good. What are some solutions to this move?

 

[SJDinPHX]

One of the guys I play regularly does the 1 rail kick break every time on me because he realized I cannot figure out a good way to get out of it. More often than not, I'll kick one rail towards his pocket with mixed results, more bad than good. What are some solutions to this move?

#1..Make sure he is driving a ball to the rail on the 1-rail kick break. This can happen often...If he hits them harder, theres a good chance he may sell out a bank to you.

#2..If you are having trouble getting out of this break, you would also have trouble with the standard break. Often on this break, you can come off the stack, and leave him a long, risky straight in, from the end rail.

#3..The accepted standard break, is still the best option for breaking...Otherwise, all the good players would be using the kick break... (hope this helps)

 

[cleary]

#1..Make sure he is driving a ball to the rail on the 1-rail kick break.

#2..If you are having trouble getting out of this break, you would also have trouble with the standard break. Often on this break, you can come off the stack, and leave him a long, risky straight in, from the end rail.

#3..The accepted standard break, is still the best option for breaking...Otherwise, all the good players would be using the kick break... (hope this helps)

1. He may foul on the break about 25% of the time. But while he may owe a ball, I'm frozen to the stack and in a tough spot.

2. I return a normal break fairly well. The cueball is normally on the rail and I have a lot of options. But his kick break leaves me frozen to the stack or very close to frozen.

3. I've never broke like that and seem to do fine with a normal break. Just wish I could find a better solution to getting out of his break.

 

[SJDinPHX]

1. He may foul on the break about 25% of the time. But while he may owe a ball, I'm frozen to the stack and in a tough spot.

2. I return a normal break fairly well. The cueball is normally on the rail and I have a lot of options. But his kick break leaves me frozen to the stack or very close to frozen.

3. I've never broke like that and seem to do fine with a normal break. Just wish I could find a better solution to getting out of his break.

See #2 in my post. If thats not an option, lag safe and you owe one, believe me, there is a spot on the table he will not like...The kick break does NOT usually scatter many balls real close to his hole. The chance of him making a ball in his hole, are almost zero.

Believe me, I wish all my opponents would have broken this way, I would have won a lot more games on their break..

 

[bstroud]

Learn one of the diamond systems for accurately kicking across the table.

Bill Stroud

 

[androd]

#1..Make sure he is driving a ball to the rail on the 1-rail kick break. This can happen often...If he hits them harder, theres a good chance he may sell out a bank to you.

I pay little attention to the rules, this was discussed here some time ago. I don't remember the rule.

Years ago you had to drive the CB and an OB to the rail, or 2 OB's that's the way we all played against this break and the old Oklahoma break (rolling into the head ball)
I'm sure some off the rules guys will tell us what's proper now ?
Rod.

 

[Cary]

I pay little attention to the rules, this was discussed here some time ago. I don't remember the rule.

Years ago you had to drive the CB and an OB to the rail, or 2 OB's that's the way we all played against this break and the old Oklahoma break (rolling into the head ball)
I'm sure some off the rules guys will tell us what's proper now ?
Rod.

From the One Pocket.org. rules:

"2.2 The opening break begins with ball in hand behind the head string. On the break, the cue ball may contact either a cushion or any ball in the rack first, but in either case, after contacting at least one ball, an object ball must be pocketed, or the cue ball or at least one object ball must contact a rail, otherwise it is a one foul penalty."

 

[philwelch]

1. He may foul on the break about 25% of the time. But while he may owe a ball, I'm frozen to the stack and in a tough spot.

2. I return a normal break fairly well. The cueball is normally on the rail and I have a lot of options. But his kick break leaves me frozen to the stack or very close to frozen.

3. I've never broke like that and seem to do fine with a normal break. Just wish I could find a better solution to getting out of his break.

On those breaks where he fails to drive a ball to a rail, all you have to do is take an intentional foul. You may have to kick off one rail to put him on the end rail. Center of the end rail would be nice.

 

[NH Steve]

I would practice those one rail kicks even more. I had a player that used that side rail break all the time too, a while back. At first it worked pretty well on me, but after a while I got a lot better at kicking (usually just across the table) and often, one kick across the table and his break was turned into a pretty ordinary situation. So it might cost you one ball if you have to take a scratch, but it is usually well worth it.

But the reason the standard break is considered better in the long run is that it does a more consistent job of establishing a strong position for the breaker than the side rail break does, imho.

Just out of curiosity, how often does your opponent win the game on his break, versus how often you win on your own break?

 

[senor]

One of the guys I play regularly does the 1 rail kick break every time on me because he realized I cannot figure out a good way to get out of it. More often than not, I'll kick one rail towards his pocket with mixed results, more bad than good. What are some solutions to this move?

I think SJD or Rod mentioned that this break usually results in not too many balls separated from the stack. Since you mention that your usual reply is kicking towards his pocket, I would practice kicking at his pocket with speed. I realize you will be jacked up over the stack...it's hard to be accurate from this spot, so hitting the shot with speed will increase chances that the object ball is moved and the cue ball caroms off the object ball into one of three places, more often than not, these places being uptable, in the stack, or on the bottom rail below the stack.

 

[androd]

I think SJD or Rod mentioned that this break usually results in not too many balls separated from the stack. Since you mention that your usual reply is kicking towards his pocket, I would practice kicking at his pocket with speed. I realize you will be jacked up over the stack...it's hard to be accurate from this spot, so hitting the shot with speed will increase chances that the object ball is moved and the cue ball caroms off the object ball into one of three places, more often than not, these places being uptable, in the stack, or on the bottom rail below the stack.

This is very good advice. I thought of this when I read the thread, but it's hard for most to try.
Rod.

 

[cleary]

I would practice those one rail kicks even more. I had a player that used that side rail break all the time too, a while back. At first it worked pretty well on me, but after a while I got a lot better at kicking (usually just across the table) and often, one kick across the table and his break was turned into a pretty ordinary situation. So it might cost you one ball if you have to take a scratch, but it is usually well worth it.

But the reason the standard break is considered better in the long run is that it does a more consistent job of establishing a strong position for the breaker than the side rail break does, imho.

Just out of curiosity, how often does your opponent win the game on his break, versus how often you win on your own break?

Thank you for the advice. Overall, I typically beat him. Being as we are both inconsistent, the break is only a small part of who won and who lost that game. But I win on my break with him about 80% of the time and about 50% of the time on his break. Even with the kick break stumping me when I get locked up, I fall behind early in the game and fight my way back. His kick break may be the most consistent part of his game. If I handled it better than I do, he may switch back to a normal break.

 

[cleary]

I think SJD or Rod mentioned that this break usually results in not too many balls separated from the stack. Since you mention that your usual reply is kicking towards his pocket, I would practice kicking at his pocket with speed. I realize you will be jacked up over the stack...it's hard to be accurate from this spot, so hitting the shot with speed will increase chances that the object ball is moved and the cue ball caroms off the object ball into one of three places, more often than not, these places being uptable, in the stack, or on the bottom rail below the stack.

Thank you, I will give this a try next time I play him.

 

[Rod]

I use to play a guy that used that break. On a good break sometimes I had to leave him up table. As noted long straight in on the rail is no bargain. I set up balls and practiced kicking 1 and 2 rails from that position. It won't take long and you can hit some of them with speed. The big thing is hitting the cue ball exact. Jacked up is not the time to use english because of the masse' effect. So get real steady over the ball and hit it dead center. It not an effective break as noted plus he will have less to shoot at since the balls do not separate. I wish every opponent would break that way, sadly they don't.

Rod

 

[newfosgatesucks]

ANother common reply is to thin off a ball and zip him to your side rail, the bottom rail, by his pocket.

There is nothing wrong with leaving him long with just one to get on the top rail.